Tuesday, December 24, 2013

Opening a 35mm Canister for Reloading

So you want to bulk load your film, but are either too cheap to buy reloadable cans, or feel environmentally conscious and want to reuse your cans.
I do it because it's expensive to have as many reloadable cans as I would need!

Polypan cans usually yield between 40 and 60 rolls of 36 exposures per 90M can.
I'm now going to start rolling 24 exposure rolls, so imagine how many that'll need!

So, lets say you want to develop a roll of film, but want to save the can for reuse.  Most of you out there in the changing bag/tent or darkroom take your 35mm can opener and just rip the top off!
I know, I've done it..

Well, that was until I started doing it this way.  Now I never rip off the top, and if I ever accidentally lose the leader and can't retrieve it by licking another leader and feeding it in, well, I use this method.
So get yourself your roll of film and your favorite 35mm can opener.
I would suggest practicing this in the light first before doing it in the dark.  Might mean you have to sacrifice a roll though!


So I have a roll of Kodak 400 film, and my old Sears 35mm can opener.  This poor old can opener has certainly been through a lot.  It looks as beaten up as my old Signet 35!
Since we have the film and the opener, lets get started..





Gently work our way around the can, lifting little by little.  Don't rush it!   This takes time, and if you rush it you'll ruin all your hard work!
We're trying to save the can, not ruin it.
Anyway, as you can see I have a very small space now between the lid and the can.  Slowly work that space all the way around the can, and the lid will lift away.



Here's the cap off the canister, and you can see a small piece of felt attached.  This is a good thing, as it will let you know the direction it came off.  Not 100% necessary, but good to know and have, just in case.


Top is off, and the film spool is out.
As you can see this one is already shot and cut off from the spindle.  Make sure you load it back into the can the same way you took it out.  If you flip it over all you do is backwind it, and that'll cause other problems.


Put the spindle in and pull the film tight out of the light trap.  This flap of film is where you'll be attaching your new film to.


As you can see the spindle is in, and the edges aren't bent or kinked at all.  Now to reassemble the film canister.  This is actually a really easy process, just be gentle with the edges is all.


Pinch the sides closed so you can form a rough circle.  This is so you can attach the top of the canister easily.

While pinching the sides with your thumb and fingers, align the top and start adding pressure and work it around the edges of the film can.  Inspect it as you go along that all the edges are in the slot properly and not over the lip of the top.  This will actually bend the lid's lip or the film can and render the can almost useless unless you have some beading pliers and can fix it.


Inspect the edges carefully.  I'm checking here to make sure that the film can is in the top properly and ready for the final press.


Using your thumbs on the side where the spindle protrudes, and on either side of it, press the can firmly in between your hands, as I have done here.
You should feel it snap shut, and even possibly hear it!
This part can actually be substituted with a door and jamb.  But placing the can in the door jamb with the spindle top facing out of the door, and the bottom facing toward the door, bring the door against the film can and make sure that the door is going to close FIRMLY and SQUARELY on the can.
Swing the door open slightly then firmly bring the door shut against the can.  This will force the lid down onto the can and snug it up.
This can be repeated a couple times if desired, and you can rotate the can to make sure it's even all the way around.


After pressing it tightly shut, inspect the edges of the film can to make sure that the can is properly in the seat of the lid.


Using the 35mm can opener, you can press down on spindle side with the lid against the table  This part is unnecessary if you have opted for the door method.  It's my personal favorite method really.
The other option is you can use a butter knife with a good weighted handle, and putting the film can against the table edge with the spindle facing the floor, give the lid of the can a couple good solid 'hits' with the flat edge of the handle.  This will also seat the lid properly.
Make sure you rotate the can to make sure it is even.  I have done this method a few times, but much prefer the door method!


There you go, the can is assembled, the film is out and ready for film to be attached, and the job is complete!
Hope this method works as well for you as it does for me!

*NOTE : Fujifilm Cans are a bit of a pain to reassemble.  I have found that the door method works best with Fuji cans.  Kodak are some of the easiest to work with, but there are some Chinese film cans that are snap ready cans, and easily open and close with just a bit of pressure from your hands, and snap closed!
Those are the best cans, and whenever I have sent film anywhere, it is never in those cans!

Until next time fellow bloggers, keep those shutters firing!

Friday, December 20, 2013

Canonet Ql25 Sticky Shutter repair

So I am constantly being asked about a sticky shutter repair on the Canonet.  Well, I had written one up ages ago, but it has been lost in the ages..
So I'm going to re-write one.  I have all the original images I took when doing the repair, so they are a little outdated, but should work all the same..

BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH THIS REPAIR;
1) Are you capable of completing it from start to finish?
2) Do you feel confident?
3) Do you have all the required tools and materials?
4) Are you okay with the idea that you can potentially render your camera completely inoperative?

If so, feel free to continue.  If not, send it in to a professional for service.

ANY AND ALL STEPS BELOW ARE COMPLETED AT YOUR OWN RISK!
I will take absolutely NO responsibility for any damage you have caused to your camera, through impatience, or inability, or incompetence.
Do not send me a message complaining on how my tutorial caused you to break your camera.  This information is for educational purposes only, and cannot guarantee any results.
Should you ruin your camera, it is your fault, and solely your fault.
Continuing herein you have automatically agreed that I shall not be held responsible for any damages that come to your property, or your mental state.

Okay.. so that's all taken care of...  Now lets continue...


First off, the things you will need are simple.

You will need a bunch of these.  Known as Cotton Swabs, or Q-Tips.  It doesn't matter what kind you have, they will all do the trick.  Plastic shaft, or cardboard shaft, again, makes no difference.
If you live in a place that has a Green-Bin program, get the cardboard shaft as they can all go in there.  The plastic shaft one ends up going in the garbage.  Unless you pull the cotton off for the green bin and throw the shaft into the blue-bin.
Anyway, the next thing you'll need is a good work surface.
A table is a decent place, and you definitely need a good work light!
A goose-neck type desk lamp aren't a bad option, but I use a flashlight for the majority of my light.
For a work light, I have this, which is an LED light source, and is very bright and portable.
It is unobtrusive, and I can angle the beam where I need it most.
Plus, being a flash light, it is great for power-outs and working in dark places, but that's a different subject entirely.
Using a Gooseneck worklight isn't a bad idea either, as you can get one that clips to the edge of your table and can be angled into the right spot as well.
I prefer the flashlight as I can move it around the table where I need it most, and don't have to have it in a single spot.  The other thing you will need is Isopropyl Alcohol 96% or higher.  I have 99%
The reason for this is that it has a very low boiling point.  I know that sounds odd.  Boiling point?  Water's boiling point is 100°C.  What that means is that when water hits that temperature it is converted from a liquid into a gas and evaporates.  Isopropanol does the same thing at a much much lower temperature. Place a drop onto a piece of paper and it will vanish before your eyes!  This is it evaporating into the air, because of the low temperature boiling point.
But enough of the science lesson, and on to the repair!
Okay, we have our work surface, we have our light and the alcohol.. what else?
Oh yes, a screwdriver (fine jewelers drivers are best, or some electronics screwdrivers) and a spanner tool!

NOTE: Have a microfiber cloth (clean) or towel, or a soft pillow or silk handy.

I'm forgetting something...
....
OH of course! A CANONET!


Here we have a Canonet QL25, which is essentially a Canonet QL17 and a QL19 but with the slower ƒ/2.5 lens instead.  Just because it is slower, doesn't make it any less usable.  In fact, this camera has a very sharp lens!
But how would I know?  The shutter is sticky!  Well, it was, but I have fixed it a long time ago, and now I'm writing up the blog to show the repair.


First step is to locate the retaining ring notches on the front of the lens.
This is where you place the edges of your spanner tool and unscrew it from the camera.
You can, if you are very careful, use a small flat screwdriver, but I would not advise it.
If you don't have a spanner tool, STOP.  Get one before continuing any further!


This is the ring that is holding on the front embellishment.  Place it off to the side for safe keeping.
As you notice I am working, again, on a white work surface.  This makes it a much higher contrast area so I can see better.  By having a white surface you can see all the screws and any clips you remove from the camera.
Always a good idea to have a dish or a tray of some sort for the different screws.
Also, make sure you have your phone, or a digital camera of some sort, with you during the process.  Take pictures for YOUR REFERENCE!  Just because you see it here, doesn't mean you will remember on YOUR camera!


The ring has been removed here, and the embellishment is now ready to be removed.  What is nice is that the light meter sensor is not attached to this part, it's located further in the lens.  Unlike the Konica Auto S2 which has the light meter in the front embellishment, and a couple of wires that gets in the way, the Canonet does not.
Smart thinking Canon!


Here the front embellishment is gone and you can now see the light metering density hole die.  This die does not need to be removed, and can be left in place for the remaining of the repair.
The easy part is now complete!


Next is the first element group.  This has two notch marks in the housing for removal with your spanner tool. I do hope you have the adjustable kind, otherwise you'll be hard pressed with this repair!
I've circled the notches in red for easy identification on your camera.
Clearly this isn't the first time my camera has been pulled apart, seeing the scuff marks in the black paint on the ring.
I have a screwdriver in the image just pointing to the notch marks, I have an adjustable spanner.


There, first group is removed.  CAREFULLY set this aside!  In fact, if you have a microfiber pillow or cloth, clean of course, or some kind of silk fabric, put the glass in there.  Be very very careful NOT to scratch the glass and do place it on a hard surface.

Oh and for a side note, since you have this out, if you have hazy glass, the Isopropanol is great! Using a Q-Tip dipped in the alcohol, gently clean it in small soft swirls.  Use a dry q-tip to dry the excess and when its dry, use another clean and dry one to polish it in gentle swirls.  Look through it at a light source, and it should look crystal clear.  If you still see haze, repeat until its gone.
But be gentle!

Now that the element is set aside it should look like this.


What you are seeing is the shutter blades.  Good chance there is some residual oil on those blades causing the shutter to stick shut.  This part is a little tricky, but not hard to get passed.  It's the removal of the rear element group so that we can access the back of the blades for a proper cleaning.

*NOTE: You can use NAPTHA for the shutter blade cleaning as well, for similar reasons as the Isopropyl.  It is a pure liquid, no water content, and has a low boiling point so the chemical will evaporate quickly leaving no residue.


Outlined in red, in the photo not on the camera, is another retaining notch.  There are two notches, directly opposite each other on the ring.  Using your spanner tool, unscrew it gently.  It might be stiff, considering it has been on there for quite a while, but will come off all the same.
Once it is out, place the glass element again with the front group.  NOTE THE WAY IT HAS COME OUT OF THE CAMERA!!!
It is imperative that it goes in the exact same way it came out.


So here it is, the back of the shutter blades.  Right now we are currently at the point where we need to stop, and reflect.
We have removed all the elements from the camera, and prepped to get the blades unstuck.

Well, lets have a quick break to calm our nerves.  Don't forget, up to this point, we can always stop and put it all back together, no harm done.  The shutter is a very sensitive instrument, designed with very little tolerances.  Usually if something happens, even small, the shutter will fail.
So, stop, have a smoke, a breather, a cup of coffee or tea.
Go for a quick walk, or grab some fresh air.





Okay, we're back.  Hope you're feeling much more relaxed.
So, since you're continuing to read, it means one of two things, you're going to precede with the repair or you are just reviewing this post to see if it is right for you.
Either that, or the dancing Hot-Dog enticed you to continue.

Alright, so now that you're back, we need to get outselves a shutter release cable.  One that has a lock on it.


Once it is screwed in place, you need to set the shutter speed dial to "B" and the aperture to its widest setting, which for this model is 2.5
As you can see, I've tried actuating the shutter a few times to try to free the shutter without opening the lens up prior to the next part.  
So lets do that now...
Speed dial...

Yup, now set to "B"... Ooops, I didn't set the aperture to the 2.5!  Silly me, but that's okay, I'll fix it before I start the next part.
Okay, so making sure the shutter and aperture is set, I now cock the shutter by winding on the film advance.


So with the shutter cocked, and if the winder won't advance you've got it cocked already, we will now depress the shutter release cable release and lock it in its depressed position.  As you can see in the image I have the shutter release in the depressed and locked position, but nothing happened to the shutter.  Stuck closed!
DARN!

So the next part I could not photograph as I was trying to get the blades open gently so I will describe it.
Using a cotton swab dipped in alcohol, gently massage it onto the blades, front and back, and let it sit for a few minutes.  You can also spray Naptha onto the blades and let it sit as well.
Once it has sat for a few minutes, if it hasn't opened, use the swab, a dry one, and start to clean up the blades.  Gently.
While doing that, get to a point on the blades where you can start to push them open a little.
This should be done at the front of the camera


I am again using my screwdriver to point at the shutter blades.  As you can see there is one blade that overlaps the rest.  This is a good starting point.  But do it gently, and in the general direction that the blades will rotate open in.
Once they start to move they will snap open...


Which is exactly what has happened here.  Looking through the back of the camera, the shutter is completely open.  Release the shutter, and recock it.
Test it and see if it will open again.  If not, using the same technique, clean it again.
It should open up almost instantly afterward.
Once that is done, you should continue to use the alcohol and clean the residual oil from the blades.
Test it again once it is cleaned, and if it is snapping open and closed each time no problem, change the shutter speed to 1/60s.  You should actuate the shutter 5 to 10 times, and continue to clean the blades.
Again, another 5 to 10 times, and repeat.
When you no longer see any residue on the blades.

*NOTE: When cleaning the blades, afterward, only use a very small amount of Iso-Alcohol for the first 4 or 5 cleaning cycles, AND ALWAYS DRY OFF THE EXCESS BEFORE ACTUATING THE SHUTTER!
The blades MUST be clear and dry before you actuate the shutter.
There will be some under the blades, that is unavoidable, which is why in between each clean you actuate the shutter 5 to 10 times.  This will rub it out from under the blades, and it will evaporate.
Any "liquid" that doesn't evaporate is oil on the blades, and must be cleaned off.  That is why you use Alcohol or Naptha.

You can also use this exact same technique on the aperture blades to clean any oil off them, if there is any oil.
If there isn't, leave them alone.  Like the shutter, they are built with very little tolerances for error.


Reassembly, start with the rear element group first.
Pop it into the camera, and screw it in by hand gently at first.
Then SNUG IT only using your spanner tool.  Do not over-tighten.  Doing that and you can damage the camera.
Also, if the lens is hazy, as above steps for front element group, you can clean the glass the same way.


Next, we flip over the camera and reinsert the front element group.
Hand tighten it only.  Once it is tight by hand, use your spanner tool and snug it.
Once that is done, we'll pop in the embellishment..


Retaining ring time next, so screw that back in by hand until it is finger tight, and use the spanner tool to snug it up.


There we go!
The camera is now reassembled...

Time for a field test...
So, load it up with your favorite film, and give it a good test...






Looks to me like the operation was a success!
Give yourself a pat on the back, and relax your nerves.  That's a great job, and well done!
Don't get cocky, though.  This was a relatively simple fix.  If it gets more involved, such as timings being off on the shutter speeds, or a blade sticking closed, that is when the camera requires a professional service.
A sticky shutter is one thing, but anything major requires the pros to repair it!
Always send your cameras in for a CLA once every 10 years.  They will benefit from a bit of TLC.  Just because the camera is working now, doesn't mean that it can't fail at the worst possible moment.


Enjoy the camera, it will serve you well for many more years to come!

All above photos taken with this camera were shot on Ilford FP4+ 125 ASA film

Left Image: Canon EOS 40D dSLR w/Helios 44/2 58mm ƒ/2 Lens

I hope you enjoyed reading this post, and that it was informative and useful. I enjoy doing this sort of stuff. But if the camera problem is more difficult to overcome, or the camera is far more complicated than this, I won't touch it and send it to the professionals.

Until next time fellow bloggers, keep those shutters firing!

Sunday, November 10, 2013

The Argus C3 Repair Guide

No, this isn't the definitive repair guide to the Argus C3, as you can get a repair manual for that.  This is a basic guide to unstick a sticky rangefinder focus, and how to disassemble the lens and body.

It is actually very easy, and one of the reasons why a lot of people who pride themselves on customized and repairing cameras go for the Argus C3.  Besides, it's a fantastic camera!

So first off, what you'll need..

For starters, a small jewelers flat screwdriver, but not the ultra small one, as that will not unscrew the larger screws for this repair, but will be good for aligning the rangefinder later.
A handful of cotton swap sticks, and some oil.  Gun oil is best, but if you have no gun oil or some kind of machine oil (sewing machine oil), then olive oil (Extra Virgin) works pretty well!  It's actually a fantastic lubricant for all sorts of camera parts, mostly focusing helicals, and wheels, but should never ever come in contact with electrical parts, shutter blades, aperture blades, or the like.
Also, the Canon A-series Squeal repair, it is crucial that you use GUN OIL ONLY.  Olive oil and machine oil is far too thick and will cause more problems then it will solve.
Obviously you will not need this much oil for the repair, as it is just for demonstration purposes only.
You will also need a tube of adhesive to reapply the leatherette, unless you are reskinning your C3.
The adhesive I used is a non-acid based one that I picked up from Walmart for a couple of dollars.  It is not crazy glue, which I would not recommend using at all, and will not bond to skin.  It does contain acetone, so it can smell rather strong.  Thankfully when I did this repair I had a cold, so I couldn't smell anything anyway.
Of course the other couple of items you will need are foam pads, preferably in a shade of white.  This will help you save your stuff, and for easier visibility.  Small containers will help to store the screws.

So, lets get to it..
So first off, you will need your beloved "Brick".  For the record, I have two of these, and one has already
undergone this kind of repair. 
So here is the C3, my repaired model used to display a model with the leatherette still in place, except where it fell off in the two upper corners.
First thing to do is to find a corner that is starting to lift away.
Your camera is at least 50+ years old, there is bound to be a corner that is lifting.
Gently peel away the leatherette and place away from the oil and other material.  Be very careful around the rangefinder and viewfinder windows as the thin leatherette there can rip.
When you have that all removed, your Argus should look something like that, which is very steampunk-ish..

So now that we have the leatherette off, you'll notice some minor differences between the previous image and this one.  For one, this is an earlier model C3, which is missing the cold shoe, while the repaired one has it.  Also the rangefinder distance wheel is missing the distance scale on it, which doesn't affect the operation of this camera at all.  What does affect the operation of the camera is the fact that the frame lock is missing, and I have to release it by using a long thin piece of metal.
Also, if haven't removed the leatherette as of yet, take a look at a large photo of the Argus, and you will see where the body screws are, then you can just gently lift up the leatherette where the screws are to remove them.

Okay, so the next step is to remove the shutter cocking lever.  That is done by unscrewing it clockwise.  Once it is removed, you will see a nut underneath.  Do Not Remove this nut at all.  It is used to stop the lever from travelling around and around until it becomes flush with the body and jams against the housing.

Once that is removed, you then remove the screws from the body.  Do not remove the screw from the shutter speed select dial, as it is only holding on a oblong wheel behind and does not hold anything to the body.  
 The last screw is beside the rangefinder window.  I always leave this for last, and replace it first.  it is rather long.
It is my preference, and doesn't necessarily mean that there is any significance to removing it first, last, or whenever.






 As mentioned, you can see how long this screw is.  Keep it with the rest of the body screws.
You'll quickly understand why the suggestion for the white foam mats.  It makes it much higher visibility, plus it reflects light back up to a working surface.

Always make sure you have a good light source that will provide enough light from multiple angles that it will reduce shadows.  This will help with visibility.



 Here the face place is removed from the body of the camera.  You can see the innards of the camera, from the shutter cock, release lever, Flash Sync poles, blue shutter blades, and even the rangefinder mirrors.  Those can get a quick swipe with a clean cotton swab, do not use anything on the swabs, as it can desilver the mirrors, which is not something that you want.  It'll cause the camera to become instantly unusable.  You can, however, add some 99% alcohol to a cotton swab to give the rangefinder window and viewfinder window a cleaning and polish, as it will remove years of dirt and dust without streaking.  The alcohol should be gently removed after with a dry cotton swab.  It will pretty much instantly dry after as alcohol evaporates fairly quickly.
From this point, make a quick inspection of the camera.  You need to note where everything is.
In fact, I would highly recommend taking a snapshot of the inside of the camera with a cell phone, or other camera, so that you can have a quick reference image of where all the different parts inside go, and have a reference for the layout of the camera.

This part is where you start to remove the lens and the focusing interconnect sprocket.  Make sure that the lens is at its most extended position (3 feet) as it is essential for the removal of the sprocket's retainer.
When this is at its minimal focusing point, unscrew the retainer.  It might need a bit of effort the first time, as years of sitting will hold it in place.  But once it comes off, you can gently lift it away and place it onto the white pad for reassembly.



 Retainer now unscrewed, and you can see the sprocket peg underneath.  The sprocket will lift away, but you might need to wiggle the lens a little to free it up, but once freed up it will lift away very easily.

 Next, unscrew the lens.  It unscrews just like any screw mount lens, and will separate from the body easy enough.
Once it is freed up, you'll flip the face plate over to see the backside of it.
 This will expose the yellow contrast window for the rangefinder, and you will see the rangefinder dial.
This dial is what is causing the first half of the operational problem.  This will require the first dabbing of oil, but not a lot.  First make sure that you run a dry clean swab over it to clean off any dust and debris that may be on it, so that when you apply the oil it won't get into the wheel and cause it to gum up again in the near future.
 Apply a small amount of oil using the swab, which I did just by dabbing in the oil and putting a small drop into the edge then using the other end to work it around.



Clean off any and all excess oil so that it doesn't get into the inner workings of the camera after it is reassembled.




Now that the dial is oiled, and excess is removed, you wheel it around and around and around.  You will feel it stiff at first, and after one revolution it'll free itself up and feel like it's new. Almost like magic!  All that dried up oil/grease in there will absorb the oil you just applied and become revitalized again and ready to serve you for another dozen years.   Since you've got this all apart, use the opportunity to use the a clean cotton swab and some alcohol to clean up the rangefinder windows.  The yellowed contrast screen can be cleaned this way, as can the viewfinder and rangefinder glass in the middle of the wheel.
Next we move on to the lens.  This screw is the distance retaining screw.  It will not allow the lens to focus beyond 3' as it will completely unscrew and fall off beyond that.  So using your flat screwdriver, remove the screw and place it on the mat.  Begin unscrewing the lens, and it should separate fairly easily, as the helical grease should see be relatively okay.  It won't be fantastic, and that part to clean that up is coming.
Once apart you can see the focus collar, and lens helical.
Place the lens anywhere on the mat, away from your work surface, so you can concentrate your efforts on the focusing collar.  This is the part that is geared and rotates on the mount to focus the lens in and out. You will see a small grove in the collar. This is where that screw slides up and down through its travel.  The top grove will allow the lens to completely separate from the mount, but it's a snap ring which holds the focusing collar in place on the mount.  You can remove that ring, but it's rather pointless as you can do this next part with the collar on the mount.


Add some oil to your cotton swab and place a single drop, no more than that, into the grove of the collar. Once you've done that, spin the collar around the mount a few times, and you should feel it free up.  It would spin freely before, but the oil that was on originally has probably mostly evaporated and gummed up the works.  This will give the collar new life.  Once that is done, use another dry swab and rub off all excess oil so it won't dribble down and possible contaminate the shutter blades.
Highly unlikely that will ever happen, but better safe than sorry.
Here you add some oil to a cotton swab, preferably clean, and run it around the inside of the mount.  This is where the lens focus helical sits to focus.  It will be a little on the gummed up side, which is why it is good to add some oil to this.  Do not add a lot of oil, as you just want it to be brushed on.
There is no need for a lot of oil.  Just a little is more than enough, as you brush it around the entire mount on the focus helical.
You should also remove any excess so that it won't dribble down and possibly contaminate the shutter blades.

The next steps is for disassembling the lens, and can be skipped over if you don't want to do this.  It should be done with extreme caution, as the aperture blades will be removed from the lens, and you don't want to drop this piece and cause the blades to fly everywhere...  It'll be a really big mess!

Unscrew the front retainer, as this is what holds on the first and second elements.
Once removed, gently remove the element from the lens by turning it over on the foam mat.
Keep it down as you will put it back in in reverse.  it is critical that all elements go back in the same way they came out, or focusing will be near on impossible, and you will not be able to get a sharp image.
 The second element is removed by turning the lens upside down and giving it a slight but gentle thump onto the mat.  This will dislodge the spacer, and element.  Again, make sure that you keep it in the same position that it came out to go into the lens in reverse.
 Next, flip the lens over and using a pointed spanner tool, unscrew the rear retainer to remove the rear element.
The element will then drop out, so same as all the other elements.  Place it onto the mat in the same direction that it came out so you can place it back in in direct reverse.

Once that is done you can remove the inner parts of the lens, which is the aperture retainer, aperture blade ring, and aperture blade guide.
Notice on the guide that there is a tiny tab?  That is a critical piece for correct operation of the aperture blades.  When that is all out, turn the lens back over and you will see the aperture select dial.  Unscrew that just by turning it like you're adjusting the aperture until it comes away from the lens body
 After that is removed, use another new cotton swab and clean the threads of the control.  After they are clean, add some oil, but do it in the same aspect as the focusing helical of the lens.  Just brush it on lightly.
 This part comes next, which is cleaning the inner threads.  Use yet one more clean cotton swab to clean the threads, then again, brush a small amount of oil onto the threads.   This will allow the control dial to spin freely.  By doing this, you will not accidentally muck your focus when you adjust the aperture opening of the lens.
After that you can screw the aperture control dial back in until it is snugged up.  Once that is snugged up, unscrew it slightly until you line the aperture setting to just slightly before ƒ/3.5.  Should be roughly one quarter turn.  Now reassembly of the aperture itself.
 First the aperture guide.  This part is very important for the correct operation of the aperture.
 Notice the outlined (in red) groove?  Remember the tab of the guide?  it goes in there..  It will drop into place once correctly aligned.
Now we add the aperture blades. Those go in with the single tab facing toward the back of the lens.  That tab is a locking tab so that the aperture plate doesn't spin when you select the aperture on the control.
Here's the aperture locking guide and rear element holder.  The groove in the side lines up with the tab on the aperture ring, and will drop into place.  You will also notice a pocket on this locking guide which must be out toward the back of the lens.  The rear element will sit in that spot.
Before we add the rear element, use a microfiber cloth, or a piece of silk, and clean the element.  This will remove all grime from it.  If there is fungus or haze, you'll have to use a bit of WinDEX or lens cleaner. Haze you can use the 99% alcohol to remove, but if there is fungus, you must use Window cleaner WITH Ammonia.  This will kill and remove the fungus.
I cannot warn you enough.  BE VERY GENTLE WHEN CLEANING!! You can easily scratch the coatings on the lens elements.
Next we add the rear element back into the lens.  This element MUST have the convex (outward curved) side toward the back of the lens.  This is critical for correct operation of the lens.  You can confirm the design by looking up "COOKE TRIPLET CONSTRUCTION"
 Finally screw in the rear retaining ring to finalize the reassembly of the rear part of the lens.
 Here the rear part of the lens is now fully assembled.
Next comes the front.  The second element will drop into place, but you might have to work it into its pocket using a clean swab.
Using the same method to the rear element, you can clean the second element before installing it.
This is a double concave lens.  After installing the element into the pocket, install the spacer with the flat side down and the tapered side up toward the front of the lens.
Lastly is the front element.  Again, clean like you did the other two, and place it gently into the lens pocket with the convex side facing out.  This is critical for correct operation of the lens.
 Next screw in the front element retainer.  This will complete the reassembly of the lens.
Here's the reassembled lens, ready for reinstalling into the lens mount.
Screw the lens back into the mount.  It will screw back together very smoothly, especially with the recent recoating of oil.
If you preferred you can always get lens helical grease and use that.  Do not use anything like bicycle chain grease, or any other kind of mechanical heavy grease.
 Lens, reassembled, ready for remounting to the body.
 Screw the lens back on, careful not to double thread the lens as it can ruin the threads.
 After installing the lens, you will see this arm.  This is the shutter speed control arm.  Remove it from the body, and you'll see a small peg sticking out from it into a hole in the triangular control mechanism.  This tensions the shutter spring for the slower speed timings down to 1/10s.
Failure to install this afterward will mean you only have 1/300s shutter speed.
 Make sure that when you are ready to install the shutter arm, that the shutter dial is at 1/300s.  This is very important.  It will make reassembly of the camera very easy!
 As mentioned about the reassembly of the camera being easier, you can see the tab.  That tab prevents the speed dial from inadvertently being turned back to 1/10s, and keeps it so you turn the speed dial in one direction only.
 Slide the control arm under the bridge and into the tabbed section ensuring that the peg from the control arm is up.  This is so you can pace it back into the shutter speed control wedge.  Once that is done, turn and hold the shutter speed dial so that it'll add tension against the control arm.  When you turn over the face plate it will keep the arm in place and prevent it from falling out.
Once that is done you will sandwich the face plate and body together from the bottom up, making it much easier to align the peg into the speed control wedge.
Once the body is together, you can confirm if the pin slipped into the wedge through the inspection hole.
 If it hasn't slipped into the wedge, you can use a fine tipped screwdriver to drop it into the peg.
 Once that is complete, get the long screw and only place this one screw into the body.
 Now that it is screwed back together, it's time to get the focusing rangefinder interconnecting sprocket.
 With the rangefinder at 3' and the adjustment collar at 3' (can be done by being at the upward limit of the meshed teeth) install the sprocket.  You might have to make a few tries to get it together, but it shouldn't be too difficult.  Oh a note on that, it'll actually be slightly before 3' on the rangefinder dial.  This is minimal focusing distance, and I'll explain why this is important.
 Install the sprocket retainer by screwing it in.  One reason why it is important to be setting the rangefinder at 3'.
 Next is here.  Turn the lens until it is just over the groove.  It should be at its furthers most extension.  Once you get the screw tightened you will not be able to unscrew it any more.  Remember the snapring on the focus collar?  It serves also as a focus stop which if you install the lens at this point it'll set minimal focus, as well as give you infinity without needing to confirm.  But we will confirm that anyway.
Tighten up the screw to make sure it is snug.  This is one screw you don't want to lose!
 Screw the rest of the body together..
 Every time I have done it I always end off with the bottom right screw.
The top centre (long) screw I save for last, and first.  I just find it easier that way.
 Now reinstall the shutter cocking lever in reverse to how it was removed, so turning it counter clockwise until it locks/cocks the shutter.
 Shutter cocking lever installed, and face plate screwed together
 Camera reassembled..
 Using the adhesive, spread it out evenly on the leatherette and reapply the leatherette...

NOTE:  You will have to have the shutter cocking lever REMOVED for the installation of the leatherette.  It is my error, as I never originally removed the leatherette on my previously serviced Argus C3.

We're almost done
 Unscrew this top cover, as it houses the Rangefinder adjustment screws.
Remember that very fine screwdriver I mentioned before?  This is where you'll need it!
While looking through the rangefinder, focus on an object, then adjust the vertical and horizontal until the image lines up properly.
It is recommended that you adjust the Horizontal first, than the vertical.

Once aligned, screw the cap back on, and you're good to go!

Enjoy your fully CLA'd Argus C3 Rangefinder.
It'll give you many more years of enjoyment!

Cheers...

And Keep those Shutters Firing!!